I am wondering if anyone has any suggestions on going about breaking out the PoE from the Ethernet on the C5c PoE adaptors supplied with the C5c. My thinking is that if i need to troubleshoot a C5c and the customer is not home, I would be able to grab power from the PoE to power the C5c from what is plugged in on the inside the customers house, and be able to ethernet into the radio from the outside with my ethernet adaptor. since the C5c radios are passive PoE with pins 1 and 2 are -56 and 3 and 6 are 56+ and ethernet runs on the same pairs, i am at a loss here.
I think the easiest thing for you to do is to install a NID on the outside of the home. This would be the perfect access point for a technician and your radio would be grounded, if you’re using shielded cabling and grounding the NID.
Ya, @DustinS is right, the NID is pretty easy.
We use these when we are checking power on the roof top/checking signal: https://www.balticnetworks.com/manufacturers/ideatronik.html
The 48V (Red) ones have the wrong pin out for C5 radios, but the C5c works just fine off of the 24V (Yellow) ones. Someday when I have some time I will make up a cable to get the 48V power supply to work.
A NID on the outside is a good practice. Personally I think they need to be more vandalproof.
Get yourself 2 of these from Amazon.
WT-GPOE-1-AB Gigabit Passive PoE+ Injector / Splitter. Power over Ethernet for 802.3at or PoE+. Wall Mount with Dual DC inputs, Dual LED, Power and Data Shared on All 4 Pairs.
One will take the PoE power that comes from the Ethernet customer side and output it to the coaxial jack (splitter) on this which you will plug into the other coaxial jack off the other unit (injector). The (injector) PoE side will go to the Mimosa unit and the data side to your laptop.
This is what I do.
On another note: For installations I also made a portable PoE unit with 1 of these units, a DC-DC buck converter (9-12vdc in with 48vdc out), and a USB battery bank with a dc coaxial 12v output. Veracity makes some portable PoE units for $185+ and they suck compared to my < $40 solution.
Hi Tom9, would you be kind enough to share what DC-DC converter and USB pack you are using. We have attempted to build something similar for installs, but haven’t been able to get a reliable, functional unit the installers like as of yet.
Sorry for the late reply, I’ve been busy.
I’m not near my gear right at the moment where I could provide photos but here are the basics.
Provides 12vdc Output:
RAVPower 15000mAh Portable Power Bank Pack External Battery Charger for iPads, Samsung Tablets, iPhones, Android Smart Phones Galaxy S4, S3, (Dual USB Output: 5V, 2A; DC Output: 9V / 12V, 2A) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DVB7F0S/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_hVPFBb34YP69Z
Converts 9-12vdc input to 48vdc output:
uxcell Voltage Converter Regulator DC/DC DC 12V Step-Up to DC 48V 1A 48W Power Boost Transformer Waterproof https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N8W4P45/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_sSPFBb2P4WJM7
Takes 48vdc input and makes it Gigabit POE:
WT-GPOE-1-AB Gigabit Passive PoE+ Injector / Splitter. Power over Ethernet for 802.3at or PoE+. Wall Mount with Dual DC inputs, Dual LED, Power and Data Shared on All 4 Pairs. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015S8L3NG/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_.TPFBb5JVYSDK
NOTE: On this particular RAVPower unit you must power it on without any gear connected to the Poe port or it will trigger overload protection on the power bank due to initial current draw. The current draw, startup and sustained is well within the limits the power bank can supply, it is just that the protection is very sensitive it seems. I haven’t experienced this with any of the other 12vdc capable power banks we’ve used.
We typically use USB Ethernet adapters with smartphones to connect and configure everything.
Note that not every smartphone will allow you to specify a static IP address within the fallback range for the C5. Instead of the USB Ethernet adapters you could also use a small Mikrotik wireless router (hap-lite I think, wireless and 2 eth ports, 5vdc USB powered) with 2 ssid’s and 2 DHCP servers, one for issuing an IP address within the fallback network and one within the default network for the unconfigured Mimosa 192.168.1.0 network. Then you could connect to whichever SSID you need according to where you are in configuration steps. Configuration of that is beyond scope here. This should give you enough ideas.
Thanks for the reply. The timing is great as I was just piecing some of this together. We found an adapter for the drill batteries that we use, but I like the idea of this USB battery bank better.
We found a variable voltage up convertor but it is open circuit board and bulkier. I will order this fixed one and see how it does.
We were using the Mikrotik POE injector, but the one you have is smaller and is a fixed mount rather than cables, which will be nice. We do the Mikrotik mAP for our connection to the radio, which works really well. It is also a good general tech router for allowing wireless access in our cabinets, etc. Even if they have a laptop, it is still nice not to have to be wire connected to the cabinet at times when you are at a tower.
Thanks so much for sending.
**Advantenon, Inc. **
3500 Vicksburg Lane N, Suite 315, Plymouth, MN 55447